I. INTRODUCTION
General
Sow seed in a light loose soil. Cover with no more than 3-4 times their thickness of soil.
Large seed can be soaked in water overnight and planted singly. Small seed
should be only barely covered. Fine seed should be sprinkled on the surface & watered
only with a fine mist. Keep soil moist, not soggy. Do not let soil dry out if seed are small.
Seedlings are best transplanted on a moist, cool or foggy day; avoid midday heat. Seedlings
are often best transplanted up to the cotyledons (seed leaves). Plant flat seed edgewise,
winged seed with wing uppermost or broken off. Seed from temperate regions will often
best germinate at cool temperatures (50-65F). Tropical seeds like warmth (70-85F).
The time for an individual seed to germinate can
vary from 25% to 50% of the average time it takes to germinate
for the species. If you do not have a greenhouse or coldframe
you can still get several weeks headstart by sowing the seed in
flats indoors timed to germinate when frost danger passes.
The most common causes of seeds not germinating are:
- soil too heavy
- soil too wet
- soil too cold
- soil allowed to dry out
- not giving slow seed enough time to germinate
Causes of Seedling Loss:
- damping off caused by overwatering or insufficient air circulation
- introducing to full sun or outdoor conditions too quickly.
II. PREPARING SEED
General Methods to Speed up Germination:
- Peal the seeds
- Take even the wooden outer layer of the seed away. - I tried it once but only resulted in me killing 50% of the seed (these were not Jubeas though).
- Carve some openings into the wooden layer. - I was able to do that without damaging the seed. - Success is still questionable.
- Soak the seed in water for a few days. - Definitely works for some species to speed up germination.
- Treat the seed with chemicals i.e. Use Sulfuric acid to clean seeds - Never tried.
J.H.
Soak & Scald
Seed of many tropical trees and plants benefit from soaking in warm water overnight. A fungicidal dip is often beneficial before sowing in soil.
For hard shelled seed try a Hot Water Treatment:
Place seeds in a teacup and pour at least 4-5 times their volume of boiling water on them and leave to cool. Let soak for 12-24 hours. Often gives erratic results, but is good for many kinds, especially legumes, and when scarification is not convenient. If a large percentage are still not swollen after 24 hours soak, the unswollen can be scalded again. Do not scald more than twice.
J.H.
Scarification
With large seeds that can be handled, scratch a nick in the coat the size of this ---o--- with a small file or hacksaw. With smaller seeds, place them on a flat surface and chip off a bit with a knife. Be sure & make the nick on the opposite side of the seed from the hilum (the small dent where the seed was attached to the pod). Larger lots can be rubbed lightly between two pieces of wood covered with sandpaper. Large hard nuts can be tightened in a vise till just cracked.
J.H.
Stratification:
Giving Seeds Their Wakeup Call
s gardeners know all too well, as soon as the soil warms in spring, there will be a plethora of new weeds to contend with. These are the progeny of last year's flowers, and they have bided their time until conditions were just right for germination. By delaying germination until spring, they will maximize their growth before having to contend with their first winter. Seeds use various chemical and mechanical means of inhibiting germination until the time is ripe.
But not all seeds go through a dormant period. Most seeds sold commercially through catalogs and nurseries have been hybridized for generations and will usually come up as soon as planted. Where the gardener is likely to encounter problems is with seeds of native and woody plants. But for seeds with thick, hard walls, even commercial seeds may need some help.
Faux Winter
In most cases, what is needed is a little faux winter. It isn't really necessary for the seed to spend the cold months in the ground, as long as it thinks it did. This deception can easily be performed by placing the seeds in a small container with moist (not wet) sand, peat or vermiculite, and leaving it in a refrigerator for four to six weeks. This procedure is known as stratification, purportedly because of the layering of the seeds within the medium. Cold treatment can be avoided with the use of gibberellins.
Cutting to the Quick
For seeds with hard coats what's needed is a little nick in the pants. This is known as scarification. While in natural conditions this coat would eventually be broken down, the impatient gardener can speed the process by using a knife or file to make a shallow cut. This will allow moisture to enter and the seed to germinate. For instance, the large, hard seeds of the moonflower vine, Ipomoea alba, rarely germinate unless their coat has been notched. Advisable here is to treat the exposed seed to prevent diseases.
For other seeds, immersion in warm water will often do the trick. Other seeds, like those of the native columbine of the eastern U.S., Aquilegia canadensis, need to be exposed to a certain amount of sunlight before they will germinate.
Gibberellins - Natural Stimulators Of Germination
As many species, in Deno's study, germinate much better with the use of GA-3 (Gibberellins), or in some cases is the only way to induce germination.
It is easily obtainable from J.L. Hudson in La Honda, CA, or Gardens North, in ON. I would suggest anyone who would want to try the use of GA-3 to get Deno's book first.
The plants, I germinated with GA-3, developed normally, and there was no obvious elongation in stem. According to Deno one has to experiment with concentrations of GA-3 to be able to get a natural balance, because GA-3 may cause elongation and other effects to certain species.
Gibberellic Acids are natural growth hormones in plants. They were discovered during the study of a disease affecting rice plants in Japan in 1926, but remained unknown to the West until the 1950's , due to the political situation after the 2nd World War. The disease called bakanae is caused by the fungus Fusarium moniliforme ( previously called Gibberella fujikuroi ). This fungus produces high concentrations of gibberellins in the plants, which causes them to elongate and make the plants very thin and long.
Smaller concentrations of gibberellins occur in all plants. More than 60 different types are known, but GA-3 ( C19H22O6 ) is the one most widely studied. Commercially gibberellins are used to make seedless grapes, and to increase the concentration of sugar in sugar cane . It is used in the form of gibberellic acid ( white crystals ) produced with the help of Fusarium moniliforme.
Paul M. Olsson
Cold conditioning is normally required to obtain an adequate percentage of germination. Using GA-3, it is possible to
obtain 90-100% germination CONSISTENTLY of all species, without any cold treatment, in 9-10 days at warm.
While the beneficial effects of GA-3 in stimulating germination have
been known in the scientific literature since the early 20th century,
Dr. Deno is the first person to study them in depth and make his
findings available to the ordinary home grower. He has also discovered
other gibberelins (GA-7) are required for the germination of species
whose germination pattern until recently has remained a mystery
(Sanguinaria canadensis- Bloodroot).
I will again be offering GA-3 for sale this year in my seed catalogue.
Kristl Walek
Gardens North Seeds
N. Gower, Ont. Z4
Gibberellic Acid can be purchased from most grower supply companies. I purchase mine in Florida
from Terra Asgrow under the name 'Progibb'. I then take a small pump sprayer,
then mix the Progibb with the apropriate amount of water as specified per the label and 'voila!!!'
You've got Gibberellic Acid spray. I use it quite a bit on both cycad seed and cycad pup propagation.
Mark Covey
More on Gibberellins:
Gibberellins by Plant Hormones.
Integrated Approach to Crop Research - history of gibberellins.
Sources for Gibberellins:
Gardens North Seeds - Contact:Kristl Walek.
J.L.Hudson, Star Route 2, Box 337, La Honda, CA, 94020 - Catalog Requests to: P.O. Box 1058 Redwood City, CA 94064.
The Herb Cottage - Hallettsville, Texas.
Finding What Works
So how do you know what procedure a particular seed needs? Well, the best way is to find a book that covers the type of plants you are trying to propagate. Or, you can be a true cyber-gardener, and post a message to one of the mailing lists (see bottom). Much of the advice you find will be based on the experience of trial and error. And often one authority contradicts another. But gardening isn't meant to be a purely logical pursuit. For most of us, the learning is the fun.
III. SHOT
Shot
I found out that shot means to germinate the seed in a sterile medium before planting them in the soil. However many experienced growers do not agree with this technique, and in fact I had good results from
planting directly the seeds. The soil should be sterile, at least around the seed to avoid rotting and fungal diseases.
M. DS.
Plastic Bag Method
This method has been used for years with much success with Rhododendron & other Ericaceous seeds. Recently it has been used with cacti & succulent seeds and is now being recommended by some as the one best method for all seeds. We have not had much experience with it but it seems to be an excellent method for all very tiny seed, and for gardeners lacking the time to tend their seedbeds daily, as there is no danger of the bed drying out, & they need virtually no care till the seeds come up. Also, seeds that take excessively long to germinate may benefit, a they will be protected from pests and drying indefinitely.
A soilless seed mix is preferred. Use milled sphagum moss for Ericaceae and cacti seeds. Be sure the medium is damp, not soggy; once in the plastic bag, it will not dry out further. If necessary, water several days in advance. Small amounts of seed can be sown in small pots (2-4"); larger lots in small flats or pans. Use clean pots and labels, and spray soil surface with fungicide to prevent damping off. A light dusting with charcoal (do not use commercial briquets) will discourage fungus & algae. Sow the seed and label the pot. Place pot or flat in a clear plastic bag, twist the top, and seal with a rubber band or plastic wire. Place pot in a place out of direct sun & at the appropriate temperature. The plastic bag prevents the soil from drying out, & prevents insects & pests from eating the seeds or seedlings & if properly prepared, damping off will not occur. Rhododendrons can be left sealed in the bag for up to 3 years; cacti, 3-18 months (till 1/4 - 1/2 - 3/4" tall & recognizable as cacti). Slow growing plants can be left till large enough to handle, fast growing seedlings should be removed as soon as possible, seedlings should be transplanted to flats or singly in pots and should be gently hardened off. After removing seedlings, the bag can be resealed to allow for late comers. If pots containing seed of hardy trees shrubs, or alpines don't produce the first season, leave them out over winter, & allow up to two years.
J.H.
The Collingbourne Palm Germination Method
When I first started growing my own palms from seeds I was very disappointed by my poor success rate. Most of the books on palms and on propagation in general were a bit vague on the specifics. So I had no choice but to carry out my own experiments. As a result, I have now developed a system which gives me good results with most species I have tried growing. If you've had problems germinating palms, give it a try and let me know how you get on.
- Soak the seeds for 24 hours (sometimes longer for very hard-coated seeds). Change the water several times during this period. Keep the soaking seeds in a warm place such as a kitchen or airing cupboard.
- Clean the seeds. Get rid of any flesh or hairs (if possible) adhering to them. Fungus is a big problem with some germinating palm seeds. Although you can treat them with fungicides, these are not always particularly efficient. Fungus loves the flesh of seeds, so clean it off!
- Place the seeds in a sterile medium which is only barely moist. The biggest problems I had when I started growing palms were due to the fact that the germinating medium was too wet. This grew lots of mould, but not many palms. These days, I use a 1 pint measure - about 550ml - of vermiculite (available from garden centres), moistened with 30ml - about two tablespoons - of water. The resulting vermiculite should feel quite dry to the touch. Nevertheless, don't be tempted to add more water. I have germinated seeds in as little at 10ml of water to 1 pint of vermiculite.
- Seal the seeds in an airtight container - such as a plastic sandwich box or a plastic bag.
- Place it in a warm-to-hot position, say above the hot-water tank. Temperatures of 90 degrees Fahrenheit (about 32 C) are ideal.
- Inspect the seeds daily. If the seeds are fresh (a big if!), you may find that many species germinate in as little as one or two weeks, in spite of the fact that the books tell you they are likely to take 2 or 3 months!
- When a root appears, carefully put the seeds into well-drained compost (say 2 parts standard potting compost to 1 part coarse grit, horticultural sand or perlite), and keep warm until the shoot appears. When the shoot appears place the palm in a warm, light place. If your room temperature is fairly cool, be very careful not to over-water as the roots of some palms (even the humble date palm) will rot if the compost is kept wet when the palms are not actively growing.
Good luck.
I did an informal experiment with queen palm seeds. I put 100
seeds per plastic bag with various damp mediums. The first seed to germinate
was in sphagnum moss, but peat moss has the most to germinate so far. The
experiment is still ongoing. Other medium were: haydite, perlite, charcoal,
manure, and composted bark. The charcoal and the perlite have not
germinated any seeds. The manure has germinated a couple of seeds. The
others have had about equal results (5 to 10 per cent),except the peat moss,
which has about 20 per cent germination. The bags are in an unheated room,
which is warm in the day time and cool at night.
Richard Kennedy, 4/10/2k
Correspondence with other palm growers on the Internet has raised the following points:
- Many people dislike vermiculite as a germinating medium, mainly because it can become slimy and 'clogged up' if over-watered. Personally, I don't find this a problem. Indeed, I regard 'slimy vermiculite' as a good indicator of incorrect watering. Even so, since peat or coco-fibre is much favoured among other growers, I shall experiment with these media, to see how they compare.
- I am indebted to M. G. for advice on germinating Trachycarpus. He suggests placing the seeds in slightly moist coco-fibre in a plastic bag and keeping them cool (less than 70F). He advises against attempting to clean the flesh from the seed and says they should germinate in 8-16 weeks. I have previously had a good deal of mould problem with Trachies and I shall therefore follow Martin's advice closely to see if this brings me a better rate of success.
by Huw Collingbourne
find Huw's Palm Page/ Plant a Tropical Island Paradise at URL: http://www.u-net.com/~treetops/palms.htm
The Collingbourne Palm Germination Method - Revisited
In general, I find it better to cover the seeds as well as possible with the germinating medium. I find that seeds left on top and exposed to the air, are most likely to go mouldy. I also check the seeds regularly - every day if possible, and mix up the medium to make sure that the top doesn't dry out.
I don't recommend using the bag method with bottom heat. I ried placing bags on a heated propagator and found that the water condensed on the bag and left the medium dry. An all-round heat - such as an airing cupboard is better (but where do you live? Is it hot anyway?)
Trachies are a bit of a special case and I must admit that I have had far less success with these than with most tropical or sub-tropical varieties. This is why I contacted M. G. for advice. And he was quite emphatic that the seeds of this species should be kept cool, if necessary in a cellar, and certainly less than 70F.
You can put lots of seeds into one bag - 100 big seeds in a typical 'freezer' or 'large sandwich' bag would be fine. You could probably put 200 Sabal seeds in such a bag.
A slightly better alternative to the bag method is to use a sealable plastic food-box - the kind sold for keeping bacon in - or even plastic ice-cream tubs. These make it eaier to examine the development of the seeds.
I personally remove seeds as soon as there is any sign of a root - even just a milimtre or less - and pot them into individual pots. I believe that other people - particularly those who favour peat or coco-fibre (with which I am currently experimenting) wait until a large root has grown through the medium and is then easily visible.
On the subject of soaking, by the way, I usuallly soak for 24 houers but I am experimenting (with some success so far) with prolonged soaking (10 days or so) for very hard seeds such as Syagrus and Jubaea.
Any more questions, get in touch. Or if you have any hints and tips of your own, I'd like to hear them.
Best wishes
Huw Collingbourne
IV. THE GERMINATING MEDIUM
Other Sterile Germinating Mediums
After reading the Henk Beentje article in Principes about Chrysalidocarpus decipiens I decided I had a try with it. I was fascinated by his words "Here is a palm that should do well in Southern California in New South Wales coastal areas and perhaps even in south of France"
This leaves some hope for experimentation. Now I have four seedlings of Chrysalidocarpus decipiens in a pot, they seem to grow very slowly.
Any suggestion how to speed up their growth? Do they prefer any special soil? (I have them now in a rather sterile medium made of volcanic lava, with some peaty mix at the botto of the pot)
M. DS.
Causes of Palm Seeds Rotting
Several times, when discovering that some palms seeds had rotted I have noticed small insects running on the outer surface of the seed.
In some of my pots I have thrips, and I wonder if the small tiny insects are the juvenile form of the small black flies.
The question is: Is it possible taht this small insects are the primary reason of rotting or do they just feed upon already rotted seeds?
I am convinced now that I should avoid medium that favors such insects and therefore i only use sand and volcanic lava in the upper layer of my seed pots.
Anybody uses pure peat moss for palm seed germination?
M. DS.
Soil Mixes
Amounts are by volume, Sift through 1/4IN. wire mesh.
Seed Sowing:
- 2 parts loam
- 1 part peat
- 1 part coarse sand
General:
- 7 parts loam
- 3 parts peat
- 2 parts coarse sand
Or:
- 1 part coarse sand
- 1 part loam
- 1 part rotted leaf mold or compost
Some grdeners add to the above well rotted manure, bone meal, blood meal, lime, fish emulsion, compost, vermiculite, etc.
J.H.
Sterilizing Soil
- Some gardeners sterilize the soil mix, but many failures are due to over-sterilizing. 212*F will kill the nitrifying bacteria, but not the ammonifying bacteria, causing an imbalance & buildup of toxic ammonia in the soil. Never exceed 180*F for more than 10 minutes.
J.H.
- Soil is difficult to sterilize in the garden. Chemicals are not available to the homeowner for use in sterilization.
Clear plastic can be laid over moist soil and kept in place for several months to kill weeds, seeds and insects.
Soil can be sterilized for use indoors or in pots by placing moist soil in a kitchen cooking bag and heated in a 200ø F. oven until a thermometer in the soil registers 140ø. Higher temperatures will destroy beneficial soil bacteria.
Soil can be heated in baking pans covered with aluminum foil. However, cooking soil smells just this side of cooking cabbage and ventilation is definitely recommended.
1993-dr
Copyright 1995 by the Board of Trustees of the University of Illinois; Illinois Cooperative Extension Service - Horticulture Solution Series.
Q: What does a soil acidifier do?
A: SUPPOSEDLY used to lower the alkalinity (pH) of soil for plants that prefer more acid soil.
Q: How should soil be prepared for planting nursery grown plants?
A: Till the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches and add a good quantity of organic matter such as compost or peat moss to equal approximately 1/3 of the
bed composition.
Q: At what temperature and how long do you heat soil to kill microorganisms? Should you use regular oven or microwave?
A: In regular oven, 180 - 200 degrees for one hour. In microwave 1 minutes on high.
Q: What do you need to do now to prepare soil for spring garden?
A: Till soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches and add 1/3 organic matter. Suggest making a raised bed.
Q: What soil mix should be used for planting basil?
A: Till in 1/3 composted material. Do not add sand.
Q: How much pine bark mulch should you use on blackland soil?
A: For general garden use spread 2 inches over soil, then till in.
Q: How deep should a raised bed be?
A: Minimum 6 inches, better 8 to 10 inches.
Q: How do you build a raised bed? What soil and amendments should be used?
A: Use landscape timbers, haydite blocks, bricks, stone, metal borders, etc. to retain raised earth. Till in minimum of 1/3 composted material.
Q: Should CCA (chromated copper arsenate) pressure treated timbers or railroad ties be used to build a backyard garden bed?
A: Either one is acceptable
Q: Flower beds are full of leaves. Do they need to be removed before adding pine bark mulch?
A: No. The leaves can be tilled in now in preparing bed for spring planting.
Q: Are cross timbers ok for a vegetable bed?
A: If by cross timbers they mean pressure treated landscape timbers or railroad ties, the answer is yes.
Q: pH of soil is 7.5. How can it be lowered for lawn grass?
A: It is not necessary to lower a pH of 7.5 to have a healthy lawn in Dallas.
Q: At what depth does soil temperature remain the same?
A: Depends on many factors varying from one area to another. Climate, soil texture, organic content, and moisture content all play a part.
Q: What can you do about hydrolic fluid that has been spilled on the soil?
A: The soil is contaminated and must be removed before planting anything.
Q: The soil under a magnolia tree is low and the roots are exposed. What kind of dirt and how much can be added back?
A: Use the same soil as presently there but no not add more than an inch to an inch and a half.
V. TEMPERATURE
Heat
Milled peat moss or a light seed compost is preferred. Species from warm moist jungle areas will do best with a temperature of 75F to 85F; those from dry areas will often germinate at a lower temperature.
Germination of many seeds is helped by gentle bottom heat; for many tropicals it is a must. A bottom heat box can be easily made from a sturdy cardboard box. Place a 40 watt light inside the box & cut slits or holes in the top to let the heat through to the pots or flat. Soil heating cables can also be used.
A trial run with unplanted flats is a good idea to be sure the temperature does not get to high. Cover flat or pots with glass, plastic, or place inside plastic bags, & inspect daily. As soon as the seeds have sprouted, begin hardening off. Tropicals should be hardened off to cooler conditions & exposed to the sun slowly; over a month is best. If you do not have electricity available, a kerosine lantern, turned low, will suffice, but cover the holes in the box with plastic to prevent fumes from rising into the soil.
J.H.
VI. INDIVIDUAL SPECIES
Germinating Trachycarpus
Trachycarpus Germination - The Bag Method Applied
Subject: Trachycarpus martianus
On the subject of Trachies - bog-standard fortunei in my case - I have a continuing problem with getting the seeds clean. The seeds I am supplied with are, in fact, really fruitrs, but the flesh is so hard and compact that no amount of soaking and scraping seems to get them really clean. As a consequence, I end up growing more fungus than Trachycarpus.
Any tips on cleaning hardened fruits of this sort would be much appreciated.
Thanks, Huw Collingbourne
Dear Huw,
Just got your email about Trachy seeds. In my experience, cleaning the seeds (or attempting to) does more harm than good. Don't do it!! If the seeds are really ripe (dark blue/black in all species) the outer skin is papery , the seeds can be rubbed between the hands and the loose bits blown away. That is all. If the fruits are still green (PERFECTLY OK to harvest them at this stage, as long as the endosperm is hard), let them dry out for a week or so (Don't panic, it's OK), then sow them as they are. Mix them with moist peat, damp enough so you can JUST squeeze a couple of drops of water from a fistful) and put in a clear plastic bag. I also think a problem for you may be HEAT. That is, you may be trying to germinate them at too high a temperature. They absolutely don't need any heat at all, and if the climate is hot where you are (I've just realized you're a Brit, so that's unlikely to be the problem!), you should actually take steps to cool them down (keep the bag in the basement for example?). They all come from relatively cool areas, some cold, so need only about 70 deg.F max to germinate. If the seeds are fresh (well OK they don't have to be too fresh), they will sprout in 8-16 weeks depending on species.
Best of luck! M. G.
I had the opportunity to visit Kyle Brown's home and gardens in Glen St. Marys Florida a few years ago, and I asked him about Trachycarpus germination. It seems that temperature is fairly critical, and that they need slightly cooler temperatures than many palms. I've found that they germinate well with bottom heat that keeps the soil around 70-80 F. (I'm not good as celsius---that's a few degrees above "room emperature".) I had also grown a lot of mold trying to germinate them on my water heater (where the Sabals grew like weeds).
Scraping would probably help, and it sounds like fresher seed might help too!
L. H.
I think that removing the flesh from seeds helps quite a bit in curtailing fungus attacks -- as does a slight application of fungicide to the seeds before they are planted. I agree that applying sulphuric acid seems like a pretty drastic measure!
BTW, I've always considered Butia amongst the EASIEST palms to germinate -- certainly in Texas!
Jim Cain
Corresponding Secretary, IPS
I am indebted to M. G. for advice on germinating Trachycarpus. He suggests placing the seeds in slightly moist coco-fibre in a plastic bag and keeping them cool (less than 70F). He advises against attempting to clean the flesh from the seed and says they should germinate in 8-16 weeks. I have previously had a good deal of mould problem with Trachies and I shall therefore follow Martin's advice closely to see if this brings me a better rate of success.
Germinating Chamaerops / Butia
Strange - Butia germinates well for me too - in spite of itslong/slow/difficult reputation.
But getting back to this point of removing the flesh from seeds such as Trachycarpus - and, come to that, removing hairs from seeds such as Chamaerops too (the hairs also seem to encourage fungus)... short of soaking the seeds for a couple of days and then spending laborious houirs scraping the flesh/hairs off the seeds - which is my current, very frustrating method - is there any simple way of cleaning them up?
I am investigating the possibility of constructing some kind of scarifying device at the moment. Anyone have experience of this sort of equipment?
Huw Collingbourne
Germinating Carpoxylon macrospermum
A number of the seeds from the last batch of Carpoxylon macrospermum seeds ... have proven to be pretty dry. Remove the seed kernel from the shell and examine the kernel. ... Of the recent tests done by the IPS on seeds from that batch, Lynn Muir removed the shell from 8 seeds. Five were bad, the other 3 appeared to be intact but were quite dried out. Lynn has been soaking those seeds to see if they can be rejuvenated. In Lynn's opinion, they will probably ultimately germinate.
PS: Look up the old April 1989 issue of Principes in which the rediscovery of Carpoxylon was described in a feature article.
Jim Cain
Corresponding Secretary, IPS
Germinating Arenga engleri
This week I discovered that two batches of seeds of Arenga engleri coming from different suppliers (The Banana Tree, and PACSOA) and sowed at different time (February for The Banana Seed and July for the PACSOA seeds) have germinated at the same time.
Is this just a coincidence. The two pots are in my office under the same conditions since September this year. Has anybody done any studies on germination factors for Arenga engleri?
Ciao, M. DS.
Dear M. DS.
I've germinated Arenga engleri seeds a number of times over the last 20 years. Very old seed won't germinate, and fresh seed takes a long time to germinate. I've never had two batches in seedpots at the same time, so haven't had your experience. The only idea I have is that Arenga engleri may have to experience a "resting" period before they'll germinate. So even though you had batches planted 6 months apart, they may have been from the same growing season (even though they may have been from different sources). One batch did its "resting" in your seed pot, and the other did its resting in the bag at the seed company you got it from. This is just speculation on may part, but I know of other seeds that require this resting state before they'll germinate. In any case be prepared for the seedlings to grow extremely slowly, and very slowly after they get bigger.
G. W.
Germinating Hyphaene
You are in for a real experience germinating the Hyphaene thebaica. I have germinated about 1000 seeds of a Hyphaene thebaica variant, which I'm calling Hyphaene speciosa: refer to my article in January's "Principes" on The Red Sea Hyphaene of Saudi Arabia. Here is the best way to germinate them. Cut away the leathery husk with sharp pruning shears. This will expose the seed case cover. Cut away the hard seed cover. This is best done by piercing the bottom of the seed and cutting it away from the bottom up. It is best to do this without gloves because you really need to firmly hold the fruit etc. while you are cutting. After you have the seeds it is best to soak them for a day in a container of water. The seeds have a hollow inside. I think this fills with water in their natural setting which is stored for germination. You should add Bavistan to the water before placing the seeds in the container. Bavistan will help prevent mould/fungus etc from attacking the seed during germination and moreover during initial growth after germination. The seeds need a hot/humid environment for successful germination. I built a hot box from an ice box. I put a couple 5 watt bulbs inside, sealed the bases with silicone sealant to prevent shorts and wired it for electricity. I placed the seeds in plastic bags with a growing mixture, like well- worked black soil. I added some water to it to give it a little moisture then closed the bags and put them in the box. You can also do it with slotted trays. This way you don't need to have plastic bags. Yoy put growing mixture in the tray,
plcae the seeds on their sides and space them so the erupting roots have space.This is a good procedure. You only cover the seeds to about the top. This makes it very easy to inspect them for germination. You can pick them up and put them back in this way. Be careful. You must first line the bottom of the tray with a sheet of aluminum foil. Once the roots erupt, they quickly go down through the slots, get trapped there, and break off when you try to free them. First, you don't need to check them right away. Wait about three days before you check. After that check every day. The fresh seeds will germinate within 5 days with constant 90 degree Farenheit temperature. If you haven't had any germination within 2 weeks then turn up the heat to about 100 degrees.If you are getting germination at 90 degrees, it will take about one month for most of them to finish initial germination. If you are interested, I can tell you how to proceed with follow-up care after they germinate.
Good luck, M. O.
Germinating Jubaea chilensis, Butia yatay, and Parajubea
- Collect enough seeds. With just a few of them, germination will be too hazardous. Fresh seeds become available in September/October. However, older ones will also give some good results.
- Remove most of the mesocarp fibers to facilitate the cracking procedure (see below). Soaking the seeds in water for one or two days may improve this step. Seeds from previous years have often lost their fibers.
- Crack and completely remove the endocarp: The best way is to strike a single blow to make the shell explode. Repeated strokes increase the risk of damage to the endosperm. This is not an easy task, so you have to practice. Just be patient and don’t worry, for this is the only arduous step.
- Select the supposed viable seeds: A “good” endosperm displays a chestnut brown skin. The fertile germ is identified as a “flat bright brown tear” stuck on the surface of the endosperm. Exclude endosperms which are cracked, flaccid, dark brown and dehydrated, or which smell bad.
- Treat as a preventative with a fungicide. Naked endosperms are particularly vulnerable and can rot easily. Place them in a sterile and well drained medium, such as a mix of peat and coarse sand (1:4).
- Use individual small clay pots rather than a large seed bed. Individual pots prevent rotting seeds from contaminating the other ones. It also prevents roots damage by avoiding early transplantation. Small clay pots will further provide better conditions for the seedling, especially for temperature, humidity and air exchange with the environment.
- Cover the seeds with just a few millimeters of sand and spray with fungicide as a watering.
- Place the pots in a saucer and wrap them with a plastic bag to maintain moderate humidity.
- Put your “treasure” in a dark warm room. Temperatures ranging from 20 deg C to 25 deg C appear to be sufficient, but best results are said to be achieved with 25 deg C to 30 deg C. Use a bottom heating system if necessary.
- Open the plastic bag daily to allow fresh air to get in. Spray with fungicide when the humidity seems to reduce. Never allow the medium to be waterlogged or to dry out. Both could mean the death of most seeds. Well! You just have now to be patient and your sleeping Jubaea babies will soon sake up!
Caring for Seedlings:
- Remove sprouting pots when the seedling is about one centimeter high. It means that the root has already developed and that the seedling surely strong enough to enter the second step of its life... in full light.
- The general guideline is now to minimize any stress to the seedling. With your small clay pots, you have no hazardous transplanting to do. Do not overpot the seedlings (leave them to rest in peace, for as long as a year?)
- Keep warmth and humidity for the first weeks, for example by placing an inverted plastic bottle on the pot. Warmth will improve root growth.
- Use fungicide and allow the sand slightly to dry between waterings.
- Begin a light feeding programme as sand is a poor growing medium (though the endosperm will provide all nutrients at first). Be prepared to loose some seedlings, maybe for the first year.
M.L., Chamaerops No.21, Winter 95/96
Germinating Jubaea chilensis (The "Baggy" Method)
One source reports Jubaea chilensis germinated after 3 weeks. All he did was he packed it in a plastic bag with perlite, poked a few holes in the sack and had them virtually fry on his dashboard during the day in about 130 deg F. During the night he took them inside (A/C) about 70 to 80F. And all this every day. - Seems like temperature variation is the key here rather than the level of the average temperature. Again we try to imitate the natural environment here..
YDN
Germinating Jubaea chilensis (The Pot Method)
I have germinated Jubea seed by sowing it outside in 6-8'' pots,3-4 seeds per pot, using any general potting soil mix and covering the seed completely by 1'' or more. I water in summer to keep moist but I suspect it is the winter and spring which triggers germination so keep moist thru this time and thru early summer as well as this appears to be the main kick off point for seedlings. Use a well drained mix for you and a fungacide or copper or RD20 perhaps in the soil. Also for you I would watch the summer temps as they maybe too oppressive as both us and Chile would be cooler I should think. It may take a year or more for you but don't give up for a couple of years at least. Try to keep in a cool place outside in summer perhaps but they like some sun if they germinate. Blackbirds etc are a pain, you can cover with wire mesh to prevent this as I did for trays of Caryota species and Blue Chamaerops.
I have collected today 30 Jubea seeds from a local tree as they fell a month or so ago. Most have been collected by people or perhaps some swallowed by horses if they had the yellow flesh on them.
Ric, Aukland, NZ, July 02, 1999.
RELATED LINKS:
If you want to add a comment or add your experience to this page, please write to Germinate@TheCoolTropics.com.
|
