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Bananas are widely grown for their tropical foliage. Most enthusiasts let the green leaves
and stems die in winter but the debis covered corm usually survives extended freezes down
to 5 degrees F. By spring the banana shoots will resprout to become sizeable bananas by
the end of the short summer. Many wonder in these cooler northern areas if they will ever
grow fruits that way... No!
For growing banana fruits you need to take care of three conditions:
Dig up the banana plant leaving most of the soil on the roots, and take it into the dark corner of the basement or a dry crawl space. This will induce dormancy in the banana and it will remain in a state of suspended animation until spring arrives. it’s best not to remove the leaves. They will be brown and useless by spring, but leaving the leaves during the long winter months seems to help the plant. NOTE:Be sure to label it, especially if you have more than one variety. After four months, and shifting it around in the darkness it will be hard to remember.
Fall Planting Site Preparation
Spring Planting - Timing and Fertilizing After planting, wait until the banana has four leaves and then POUR ON THE WATER AND FERTILIZER. Fertilize monthly with a high potassium fertilizer (two pounds per application) and water daily if necessary. This is important during the first two or three months of the banana’s life because it is during this time that the embryonic inflorescence if formed and the number of bananas produced is set. So fertilizing well and early ensures the plant sets a large head of fruit in the future. Nutrition after the third month affects the quality and size of the fruit, abut it will not affect the number. It also makes the bananas grow like crazy!
Mat Management for a Vigorous Clump of Bananas The temptation is to let all offsets grow. This is not good for the health of the parent plants. However, during the growing season, it might be best to let vigorous offshoots growing a foot or more from the parent plant continue growing. Those close to the plant should be cut off (not dug, which injures the roots of the parent plant). In the fall, small but healthy offshoots could be potted and placed in the greenhouse or in a sunny window.
Variety Selection The following list is a selection of dwarfs; the number in parentheses indicate approximate flowering height: Dwarf Cavendish (5’ to 7’) This is the variety from which most commercial bananas are derived, and the most common banana seen in Florida. They are medium-green plants that produce large heads of sweet fruit. The fruit take three months to mature. Very cold-hardy - they have been known to take 30 degrees F with no leaf damage. Dwarf Iholene Red (Haá) (6’ to 7’) This is an intermediate banana; the fruit can be used as a plantain or a dessert. The fruit are drier than Cavendish but very sweet when ripe. The best feature is that the fruit ripens in six or sever weeks from the time the flower finishes opening. Dwarf Brazilian (7’ to 8’) A lady finger that produces short, fat bananas that are very sweet. The heads of fruit are not very large, but who’s complaining? This plant has proven root hardy in Raleigh, NC, and is pure green with no hint of red anywhere. Dwarf Macaboo (Red) (8’) this red-stemmed banana produces fruit that emerge red-skinned, then change to red-orange when ripe! Going Bananas nursery describes this one as very sweet, moist and creamy. The heads of fruit can be very heavy - up to 70 to 90 pounds. Rajapuri (8’ to 10’) Another solid-green plant that is very insect resistant (not usually a problem here, but worth knowing). This is the fastest maturing plant listed, flowering in eight or nine months. Source: Rhapidophyllum, Sep 1997. Q & AQ: Winterizing- what approx temp should basement or crawl space be?A: Winterizing temperature: keep it around 40 to 50degF or a little below (avoid near freezing temperatures thought).
Q: Winterizing- does plant have to be stored upright or near upright?
Q: Winterizing- do you modestly water overwinter
Q: Darkness- is this total darkness or quite dark?
Q: Spring-- what approz temp should soil be to replant?
Q: Mat-what is a mat?
Q: Offsets--"those close to plant should be CUT off"--do you mean at soil level?
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